3 things surfing has taught me
Now that I’m a solid ~1.5ish years into learning how to surf as an adult (very inconsistently), I’ve had ample time to reflect on the ways this fun little water activity has supported my being. And because I think these principles are universal, I thought I’d talk about how helpful the challenge has been!
Here are three things I’ve learned from learning how to surf as an adult:
1. How to surrender – holy shit is learning how to surf a lesson in surrender. Not just in surrendering to the ocean and the waves, but the entirety of the unknown that is the vast deep blue water with all its life. Since none of us move through life without escaping the inevitable unknown, it is helpful to have an activity where you get to practice actually being in and sitting with the unknown. Just like any new skill (physical or mental), newness takes practice and consistency. Surrendering is a constant process. This leads me to my next point – the importance of trying new things.
2. The importance of being a beginner – when I first decided I’d learn to surf, I came into it very arrogantly – full of ego. Having a background as a competitive athlete and being gifted with some natural athleticism, I didn’t have any idea how hard surfing was. The joke was 100% on me and IT ALWAYS IS when you’re a beginner. Part of the beauty of trying something new is being willing to and accepting that you will fail. When you have beginner eyes, you have open, receptive eyes. You are open to new perspectives, new understandings, and growth that only comes from being a beginner. Being a beginner is also extraordinarily humbling because you realize how much expertise goes into skillful activity. It is so important to be brave enough to be a beginner, fail, and ultimately keep going. The real lesson here is not giving up when you’re struggling – and that consistency and effort are required for forward movement and growth.
3. How much I love breathing - I wrote this one as somewhat of a joke initially – but let me tell you, moving through a medium like water reminds us of our #1 human need – to breathe! I find that many of us take the vital aspect of breathing for granted – that is, until our nose is clogged, or we struggle to find deep, full breaths. Breath is a unique aspect of humanness in that it is both an automatic and controllable behavior. Our breath gets shallow and quick when we are nervous, and yet deep, prolonged exhales can help slow our heart rate and relax us. Thus, harnessing your ability to breathe better is a backdoor into the health of your nervous system. If you focus on your struggle while you’re being tossed around in a heavy wave, you’ll lose your calm and burn through oxygen quicker. If you stay calm (see lesson #1), you realize that the few seconds you’re underwater are completely within your capacity as a human.
On a side note, if you haven’t read the amazing book by James Nestor “Breath: the new science of a lost art,” add it to your list! If you’re more of an audible person or have long commutes, Lestor narrarates the book himself and is nice to listen to. The book chronicles his own journey with respiratory issues and the ancient science/art of breathwork. Highly recommend! Breath has become a major focus in my own healing journey and the work that I do with patients and clients alike.
My other favorite breathing hack as of late is to practice Wim Hof’s famous method. If you’re not familiar with Wim – he is known for his incredible ability to control his autonomic nervous system. So well in fact, that we climbed Mt. Everest without oxygen (and in shorts…..) I like to use a free youtube version with an on-screen timer: you can find it here.
If you’re looking for more ways to improve your health and wellbeing, I’d love to support you! I work with individuals in a 1:1 capacity for several months to facilitate meaningful change and address chronic health issues. If you’re curious if you might be a good fit, you can see the link below to snag your free 15 minute call.